Christmas Dinner in Kumamoto, Japan, 2008

First, a shot of the finished product:

Christmas Dinner 2008

It was a tasty meal and served its job well: filling the Viajeros to the bursting point. Let’s walk back through the preparation. The hardest part is related to living in Japan: whole chickens are just not common here. I suppose the reason is that Japanese kitchens are small with small ovens (ours is not that big), and food is mostly prepared to be eaten with chopsticks (no need for knives and forks). However, you cannot coax the same flavor out of cut up chicken as you can from a whole bird.

Our local supermarket, Yume Mart, is a relatively new kid in town, having bought out the former Nikko Nikko Do. Nikko Nikko Do was a local outfit and very accomodating. Yume Mart is an arm of Yume Town and is a bigger company with corporate offices outside Kumamoto. They don’t play as well. I went in to get some tomato sauce, you know, to make some meat sauce for pasta. No tomato sauce at Yume Mart! The manager steered me to the ketchup! Is there anything more basic than tomato sauce? But I digress a bit…

Anyway, Yume Mart, like most Japanese supermarkets, does not sell whole chickens. When Mrs. Viajero went to order a whole chicken, she was told they do not sell whole chickens. After some grilling by the Mrs., they relented and promised to have one for us.

A $23 chicken in Japan!

I had a bit of sticker shock when I went to pick it up. ¥2111 is about $23! It was a good-sized bird at 2155 grams (just over 2 kilograms; sorry, I don’t do pounds, ounces, or any other Imperial-ness anymore), but come on! Okay, bird is home. Let’s get it ready. I usually prep all the vegetables, etc. first and do the poultry last to cut down on the chances for contamination. I wash all the veggies and drain them. Any peeling and cutting is next. My mashed potatoes are a hit, so I get a bag or two of russets (they are really small here). And you got to have lots of onions.

Onions and potatoes, from Kyushu

The other important veggies are celery and carrots, and I add some broccoli just for variety.

Celery, brocolli, and carrots, from Kyushu

If you’ve noticed that there are more vegetables above than there are below, score yourself 10 points! I fill up about 1/2 of a large pot with onions, celery, and carrots for the chicken stock (I wrote a bit about this before) I start boiling while dinner is going on.

I rinse the chicken well and dry it off. I cut off the bits that the supermarket leaves on, like the neck and feet parts. Those go in the stock pot. I usually leave a stick of butter out in the morning, so it will be soft enough later when I need it. I take a big chunk of that and put it in a small bowl. To that I add the herbs and salt and pepper. I kind of blend it together as best I can with my fingers and squeeze off bits. Then I peel back the areas of the chicken skin that are big enough for a hand or even a few fingers to get in. I slide those herbed butter bits into as many places as I can; those yellow spots below are butter. Trussing is courtesy of The Joy of Cooking; that book is always handy on my holiday cooking table. Oh, yeah, I layer the veggies around the chicken.

Roasted chicken, pre-roasting

I will cook the bird for about 15-20 minutes before adding the veggies next time. I don’t like them as soft as they came out this time. As you can see from the color and the sheen, the chicken juices and butter did not go to waste…

Roasted vegetables

After the chicken comes out, I let it rest a bit.

Roasted chicken, Christmas, 2008

While we’re waiting for the bird to cool down a bit, the potatoes I’ve been boiling (with some garlic, onion, and some kind of herbs) are usually about ready to mash. I use a hand masher and add some heavy milk and melted butter. They were especially tasty this time.

Mashed potatoes, pre-mashing

That’s about it. Note to self: grab another Viajero to take some shots at other times during the cooking process. Then I’ll have more to write about in future viajerations…

You pick ‘em blueberries in Aso, Kumamoto, Japan

You pick 'em blueberries

Kumamoto is noted for its high-quality agriculture. There are a variety of fruits and vegetables that are shipped from this area and promoted (at high prices) in the big cities like Tokyo. I saw a Kumamoto tomato fair about 5 years ago in Kobe, and my eyes popped out at the prices!

You pick 'em blueberries

We are lucky here. Some places have certain times when you can pay a fee and go in and pick and eat and take home some yummy food.

You pick 'em blueberries

In the summer, you can head up into the mountains and pick blueberries. My timing was a bit tardy in late July, as the fruit had lost a bit of its sweetness. I’ll have to try again this year. I understand June is the better month.

Goodbye Hideyo Chan!

Hideyo Chan

Los Viajeros are intensely sad to say goodbye to our wonderful friend Hideyo who passed away over the weekend, after a long, long battle with cancer. Hideyo was Mrs. Viajero’s best friend and fellow jokester. Hideyo was truly one of the nicest and funniest people I knew. I have fond memories from the first time I met her in the mid-eighties, and I will never forget the trip we all made to California a couple of years ago. One of the highlights of the trip was going to an inter-league match between the Padres and the Mariners. Hideyo was a huge fan of the Fukuoka Hawks, and lost one of its star players, Jojima Kenji, to the Mariners. Mrs. Viajero put together a sign to show to Mr. Jojima (Hideyo is holding the sign above).

Our hearts may never be the same, Hideyo, but we will hold our memories of you forever. See you again…

Like Ramen? Try Fukuoka’s Ichran!

Ichiran ramen ticket machine

If you’re in Fukuoka, you shouldn’t have to go very far to find an Ichiran. You may have to look carefully, though because they’re not very big. Once you find one, walk in and look for the ticket machine, like the one above. As you can see, there aren’t many things to choose from, and there are photos for each of the items they sell. It all revolves around the ramen, so get one of those and anything you want to go with it.

Ichiran ramen seat availability

Once you have your tickets, you may need to wait for a place to sit. Look at the panel of lights near the seats and wait for the same number of blue lights as your party, but be forewarned that if it’s too crowded, you may have to sit separately. As you’ll see, not sitting with your friends may not be a big deal. Once you get the blue light, go sit at your number.

Ichiran ramen space

Here’s your space for eating. It’s not big, but remember, the focus is on the noodles. As you can see, I’ve got my chopsticks ready. ;-)

Ichiran ramen instruction page

If this is your first time, you can run through the checklist sitting in your spot. Chopsticks? Check. Glass of water? Check. Ticket? Check. Order form? Oh, yeah, mmmm, how should I have my ramen prepared today…?

Ichiran ramen order sheet

The most important part of the meal is choosing how your noodles come out. This is all done on the form that is waiting for you when you sit down. If you have eaten ramen at many places, you will realize that this form is an incredible addition to a noodle shop! Virtually all ramen shops pride themselves on the food they make, and you mostly get what they prepare.

Ichiran ramen

At Ichiran, you choose, in the following order, the strength of the broth; the fat content of the broth; optional sourness; the amount of garlic; what kind, if any, of green onion or leeks; optional slices of pork; the amount, if any, of their “special” spicy sauce; and how firm you want your noodles. The shop in Canal City has an added option with half a boiled egg.

Ichiran ramen English order sheet at Canal City

There was an English version available at the Canal City shop. Your mileage may vary.

Ichiran ramen at Canal City

One final note is that the Canal City shop serves its ramen in beautiful rectangular bowls (is it a bowl if it isn’t round?) Take off the lid, and…

Ichiran ramen at Canal City

enjoy! :-D

I understand there’s a shop in Kumamoto. That one is high on my list of restaurants to visit next…

Sometimes, you just want a burger…

Hard Rock Cafe Nagoya, Salsa Burger

Having lived in Japan for most of the past 23 years, I appreciate how the founders of the Hard Rock Cafe felt. I know it’s not so healthy, but I don’t eat like this very often any more. The shot above is from the Hard Rock Cafe in Nagoya. Boy, was this burger good. Note to those who put together the menus: there is not enough salsa in the ramekin for the burger, AND the salsa is not spicy enough. Please add some heat to that salsa!

The World of Maya, Aztec, and Inca in Fukuoka, Japan

Maya, Aztec, and Inca Sign

If you’re in Japan, and you have never been (or have no plans to go) to any of the three major areas of Pre-Columbian culture, then you should check out this exhibit at the Fukuoka City Museum (time is running out!) The Mayan artifacts come from Guatemala and Campeche, Mexico, and they represent a decent collection for being outside of the Maya area. For the real deal, I recommend the Museums of Anthropology in Mexico City and Merida (and all the Mayan pyramids!) I haven’t been to the Peabody museum at Yale, which I understand has many of the goodies taken in the early part of the 20th C., but it’s on my list. The museum in Mexico City has a definitive collection of Aztec artifacts, and nothing beats walking through the ruins of the pyramids at Tenochtitlan. I have nothing but the Nazca exhibition to compare with the Inca display, but Peru is on my list of places to visit. The exhibition in Fukuoka is trying to do too much. It is hard to do justice to each culture in just one display. But, as I started this entry out, if this is all you can do, then go check it out.

Cirque du Soleil’s Dralion

Cirque du Soleil Dralion Sign

The circus is in town! The circus is in town! After seeing Cirque du Soleil’s Quidam (in Fukuoka), Alegria 2 (also in Fukuoka), and La Nouba (at DisneyWorld in Florida), I couldn’t miss the latest manifestation, Dralion now showing in Fukuoka. Dralion combines Asian, African, and European themes (the ‘Dra’ is for dragon, and ‘lion’ is, well, lion ;-) ). There are the usual suspects: clowns, trapeze, individual and choreographed acts of athleticism, rope (actually cloth) work, dance, and trampoline. Dralion uses some of the trampoline work that I saw in La Nouba, where they bounce to incredible heights all with precision timing–very cool stuff. There were three official clowns, and one ringer; the interplay between them all is quite fun to watch. The routine with the hair, etc. between two of them needs work; it was too predictable and tedious. The singers were great, as was the band. The woman representing the African portion of the show was incredibly talented; make sure to keep track of her when she’s on stage. This is a show to watch if you have a chance.

Victoria Peak, Hong Kong

Victoria Peak Buildings from Hong Kong Park

If you’re walking around Hong Kong, you can take a stroll through Hong Kong Park on the way to the tram that will take you up the hill to Victoria Peak. The tram ride itself is quite steep. If you need help walking or have young children, I recommend waiting until you can get near a tram door when it comes down (or up, as the case may be). That way, you can be sure of getting a seat and not having to worry about falling or getting crushed under the forces of tourists and gravity.

It’s

View of Kowloon and Central from Victoria Peak, Hong Kong

all

View of Kowloon and Central from Victoria Peak, Hong Kong

worth

View of Kowloon and Central from Victoria Peak, Hong Kong

it

View of Kowloon from Victoria Peak, Hong Kong

at

View of Hong Kong Island from Victoria Peak

the

Buildings on Victoria Peak, Hong Kong

top!

View from Victoria Peak Tram, Hong Kong

:-D

Transportation in Hong Kong

Hong Kong Disneyland MTR line

Getting around Hong Kong is fast and easy. There are many ways to get you where you’re going, and the tram, train, ferry, and taxi I used got me just where I wanted to be. Hong Kong is also a very walkable city; wear your walking shoes, and take your camera. Since I was based at the Hong Kong Disneyland Hotel, I used the MTR train system to get into town (see the Disney-themed photo above; it’s similar to the train at Tokyo Disneyland Resort).

If you plan to stay awhile and move around the islands, you should think about getting an Octopus card. You pay one price to get the card and just scan it as you enter the wicket (turnstile). The price is deducted from your card, and you can reload the card in HK$50 increments as needed. Besides not having to buy a ticket or worry about having the proper change, using the card gets you discounts on some of the methods of transportation. The card can be used in many stores as well. It’s good for three years, so you can hang on to it if you plan to go back again. Otherwise, you can get a refund on any balance above a modest charge; I hung onto my card, so I am not sure how much you get back.

Hong Kong--Central station walkway

In the Central area of Hong Kong Island, there is an entire underground area with moving sidewalks and plenty of

Okashi Land, Hong Kong station

shops (here’s a Japanese munchie shop!),

MTR Kowloon sign

signs, and information areas.

Causeway Bay street and double-deck streetcar, Hong Kong

I didn’t take the street car, but if I hadn’t had so much fun walking around, I would have.

Victoria Peak tram, Hong Kong

If you want to go up to Victoria Peak, the tram may be the way to go. Don’t let the extremely long line discourage you, it moves fairly quickly. If you have an Octopus card, you’ll still have to wait in the long line, but there’s a place for you to skip the ticket line once you get inside. The Peak itself is separate-post-worthy, so hang on for that one.

Kowloon--Central ferry, Hong Kong

Another ride you should think about taking is the ferry from Central to Kowloon (or vice versa). Flash your Octopus card, and on you go.

Kowloon--Central ferry, Hong Kong

It’s a short ride, but you can get a completely different perspective of Hong Kong, especially if you go to the top of Victoria Peak as well.

The guidebooks mention that Hong Kong is one of the cheapest cities for taxis, so if you need to get somewhere quickly, keep that one as an alternative. I used it for the airport-Hong Kong Disneyland run, and the ride was quick and the price reasonable.

Hong Kong Disneyland: Other impressions

I have to say that English was a really useful language during the trip to Hong Kong. All the signs at HK Disneyland had English and all the workers spoke enough for their jobs.

Hong Kong Disneyland menu

Hong Kong Disneyland menu

The menus were easy to understand, and the workers often brought out a menu with pictures of the food. All the restaurants had some kind of barbeque, some kind of stir-fry, and some kind of noodles. There was dim sum (yam cha) to be had, and you could get burgers (served with plastic gloves for your use; a first for me to see!), pasta, sandwiches, and other familiar food. I got the impression that they were going out of their way to make sure there was something for just about everyone.

The pin trading at Walt Disney World is the best, but, surprisingly, HK Disneyland’s pin trading was much better than at Disneyland Resort in California! Most of the workers had pins for trading, and were quick to let you have a look. The workers in California, for the most part, didn’t seem to want to be bothered with it, and that included the pin trading stations!

Hong Kong Disneyland Autopia landscaping

The landscaping at the Autopia in Tomorrowland was cool and included

Hong Kong Disneyland Autopia landscaping

a peeled banana.

Hong Kong Disneyland Autopia height limit

This boy was cute in that despite not being tall enough to drive his own car, he went back to the “You must be this tall to drive” sign at least 10 times. ;-) Even his parents got in on it trying to convince the worker that he should have his own…

Hong Kong Disneyland Castle

The castle is much smaller than those of the other parks I know, obviously the result of Eisner’s cost-cutting during construction. Perhaps a makeover is in store…

Hong Kong Disneyland Hotel balconies

The Hong Kong Disneyland Hotel was great, and the staff was very friendly and helpful. The design is from the Grand Floridian at WDW, which is based on the Hotel del Coronado in San Diego.

Hong Kong Disneyland Exit sign

The final shot comes from the exit sign as you leave. All-in-all, it was a great place to visit.